Thursday, May 26, 2011

Bungmati and Khokana

The 16th century Malla king who ruled Kathmandu from Patan, concerned that his subjects might move too far from the city to serve its defense, established two settlements Bungmati and Khokana near the Karya Binayak shrine, amid fertile fields. During a major drought, the king sought the blessings of the rain god, Machhendranath, at a temple in India, inviting the deity to come and settle in the Valley. He built a shrine at Bungmati where, some time in the last decade of the 16th century; it became the custom to keep the image of the Rato Machhendra during winter, moving it back to Patan by palanquin in summer. The village is noted for its strongly stated, shikhara-style Rato Machhendranath temple. The adjacent Lokeshwar shrine contains an image of Bhairav's massive head in full, demoniac fury. Yet another shrine of Karya Binayak stands on a tree-clad hill and beyond that, 10 minutes walk away, is a brick-paved village famous for the manufacture of mustard oil, Khokana. It has a temple dedicated to the nature goddess, Shukia Mai, or Rudrayani. Rebuilt after the 1934 earthquake, its main street is noticeably wider than in similar villages.

Lalitpur

Lalitpur is at a distance of 5 km from Kathmandu. Malla kings ruled, lived and worshiped in Lalitpur and that is why its Darbar Square in Patan is surrounded on all four side by inspiring temples and shrines built specifically in relation to the palace. The square itself is a study of the various styles of architecture that have made their homes in this courtyard. If there were any truth in the story that King Ashoka erected the four stupas next to the palace, it would make Patan the oldest existing Buddhist city. Until recently, Patan was its own entity, and travelling from Kathmandu to Patan was like crossing from one town to the other. There is little demarcation, with the traffic flowing from the streets of Kathmandu across the Bagmati Bridge into the industrial areas of Patan. But once you step into Darbar Square, you move into another world.

Changu Narayan Temple

On another hilltop 11.5 km east of Kathmandu, the Valley's oldest temple, Changu Narayan, stands in almost derelict  splendor, its struts and surroundings covered with hundreds of finely detailed, delicatedly carved erotic depictions. It's script is the first written script found in Nepal. It is one of the best examples of the temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Founded around the 4th century, it represents the very best in Nepali art and architecture and it is difficult to imagine a more stunning example of what Kathmandu Valley is all about. Woodwork, metalwork and stonework combine in dazzling harmony nowhere to more effect than in the sculptures of Bhupatindra Malla, the 17the century Malla king. The most popular route to the temple is from the Sankhu road across the Manohara River.After a walk uphill, you come to a pair of stone elephants. A few small temples flank the two-tiered main shrine, and a twin-roofed pagoda. On the right, a temple houses two sculptures. Vishnu, in the form of Avatar Narsingh, a lion-headed figure, is depicted destroying the king of demons. The other statue is of Vishnu Vikrantha, a dwarf with six arms.


Further back on a terrace, an upright, flat black stone bears an image, created between the 5th and 6th centuries, of Narayan reclining on Ananta at the bottom and Vishnuy with 10 heads and 10 arms going through the different layers of the universe. It is surrounded by later sculptures from the 9the century. A man-sized image of Garuda, with a coiled snake around his neck, graces the front of the main temple and also dates back to the 5th or 6th century. One of the oldest and most prominent Lichhavi inscriptions, which stand beside it, records the military feasts of King Mana Deva, who ruled for 27 years from 464 to 491 AD. Though fire and earthquake have often damaged Changu Narayan and its environs, this link with its ancient past remains. Life's rhythms there in the cobble stone square remain unchanged with pilgrims' platforms and lodges surrounding it and the central temple. Besides the spectacular views from the top, the area around Changu Narayan offers many good opportunities to walk and explore. Along the ridge to the east, a two hours walk takes you to the road to Nagarkot.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Thimi


Thimi is just three km west of Bhaktapur, the Valley's fourth-largest settlement founded by the Malla dynasty. It takes its name from the Nepali word for 'competent' Thimi. This is an honour bestowed upon Thimi's residents by the Bhaktapur monarchs for their skill in fighting off the rival kingdoms. It is a town of potters, where families pass on their skills from generation to generation, turn out fashionable of vessels from the clay for domestic use an dart works such as peacock, flower vases and elephant representations.

The colorful 16th-century Balkumari temple is the town's main shrine and nearby, in a much smaller dome-shaped shrine, is a brass image of Bhairav. But Thimi is more renowned as the location, along with two other adjacent villages Nade and Bode of the most riotous of Nepal's New Year (Bisket Jatra) celebrations. Nade is noted for its multi-colored, three-storied Ganesh temple. Bode boasts a Mahalakshmi temple, a two-storied 17th century temple built, according to local legends, in 1512, after Mahalakshmi appeared in a dream to the king of Bhaktapur. Every year on New Year's Day, the square around the Bal Kumari temple in Thimi witnesses a spectacular gathering of 32 deities carried in elaborate multi-roofed palanquins under ceremonial umbrellas. Later, the crowds move across the field to Bode to witness another New Year ritual (see Festivals).




Nagarkot


A view of sunrise from Nagarkot
View of Nagarkot
Nagarkot is situated 32 km east of Kathmandu at an altitude of 2,175 m. above the sea-level, the place is famous for the panoramic view of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest), Manaslu (8,463 m.), Ganesh Himal (7,134 m.) and Numbur (6,957 m.). A motorable road links Nagarkot with Bhaktapur; however, trekking is equally enjoyable. It is one of the most scenic spots in Bhaktapur district and is renowned for its spectacular sunrise view of the Himalaya when the weather is clear. Visitors often travel to Nagarkot from Kathmandu to spend the night so that they can be there for the breathtaking sunrise. Nagarkot has become famous as one of the best spots to view Mount Everest as well as other snow-topped peaks of the Himalayan ranges of eastern Nepal. It also offers an excellent view of the Indrawati river valley to the east. Nagarkot also offers a panoramic view of the Valley and is described by visitors as a place whose beauty endures year round. Ever popular among the tourists are the short treks and picnics, which Nagarkot offers. Treks from Nagarkot are unique and delightful. For anyone who wants to have an adventure without exerting much effort, a hike to Nagarkot's surrounding areas would be a good option. One can traverse short distances on trekking trails and come close to nature's wonders such as the outer of verdant forests, flower-covered meadows and unusual rock formations.

Thankot

Thankot, about 10 km west of Kathmandu built by the Mallas, and later made as fortress by Prithvi Narayan Shah its name, in fact, translates as 'military base'. An impressive two-storied Mahalakshmi temple built in 1690, occupies a charming site at the foot of a hill, much admired for its carved tympanum and columns, erotic carvings, open shrine, and images of kneeling devotees. Four km southwest stands the 2,423 m. peak of Chandragadhi, 'Mountain of the Moon' reached by a trail through a dense forest of bamboo, pine and sal trees. Back on the Raj Path, look for a monument to King Tribhuvan, built to commemorate the restoration of the monarchy after the Rana regime. There is another monument along the road which honors the men, Indian engineers and Nepali labourers, who built it between 1953 and 1956. Before then goods were moved laboriously from India to Nepal by railway, and then from the Tarai by ropeway to Daman, and by porters to Kathmandu. 

Kirtipur


Five km southwest of Kathmandu,perched on a twin hillock, 12th-century Kirtipur was to become an independent kingdom and ultimately the last stronghold of the Mallas when, in 1769-70, Prithivi Narayan Shah marched into conquer the valley. It withstood a prolonged siege, during which the Malla army taunted Prithivi's Gorkha forces as they hurled them back down the fortress-like hill. The insults were the mistake for , when Kirtipur finally fell; the vengeful Gorkha ruler odered his men to amputate the nose and lips of all Kirtipur men the only exception being those musician who played wind instruments. Now only the ruined walls remain to remind the Kirtipur's 8,000 resident of this epic battle.Kirtipur is a place of trade and cloistered learning. On top of the hill on the south, eight shrines  decorated by stone images encircle a hege stupa, the Chilanchu Vihar. There are many Buddhist manastries around the stupa. On the higher hill to the north, some Hindus have settled around a restored temple dedicated to Uma Maheshwar. The three storied Bagh Bhairav temple stands at a high point of the saddle between the two hills, a place of worship for both Hindus and Buddhist. It is decorated with swords and shields taken from Newar troops after Prithvi Narayan Shan's 18th century victory. It contains an image of Bhairav, manifested as a tiger, and the turn above the main Miktum shows Vishnu riding Garuda, and Bhairav attended on either side by Ganesh and Kumar.

From the temple there are striking views of the valley and the brightly colored patch-work of farm fields below, with the villages of Panga and Nagaon in its south-east. One can take a path through the rice fields from Kirtipur to Panga, which was established by the Mallas as a fortress town to stall invaders from the north. None of its six or so temples dates beyond the 19th century. The path continues from Panga to Nagaon, a name that means 'new village'. Tribhuvan University's campus sprawls across the farmlands near this city. The traditional occupations, apart from farming, are spinning and weaving. At Kirtipur's Cottage Industry Centre, 900 hand looms spin fine cloth for sale in Kathmandu. Although it has withstood the earthquakes that have caused so much damage elsewhere in the valley, Kirtipur has been unable to withstand the ravages of time. Yet, decayed and neglected as it is, a walk beneath the exquisitely-carved windows of the town's multi-storied houses, laid out on terrace3s at different levels, all linked by ramps and sloping paths, reveals and ambience that seems to belong to the Middle Ages. The main approach is by a long flight of steps that enter the town, which is settled on the saddle between the two hills, beside a small lake.